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Fingerboarding Theory

Fingerboarding Theory

Posted by Allister Fenton on 18th May 2020

Fingerboarding is a complex training tool. Coach Allister talks about the theory of fingerboarding including what it is, why you should be doing it, how to do it and what not to do.

Lattice: 3 common fingerboarding mistakes

Warm up:

My warm up routine: Crazy arms-air punches and windmills Finger tendon glides Jump pull ups Finger rubs Push ups Wrist rolls Trunk rotations Crunches and planks Feet on finger pull ups Scapular pull ups Progressive 2 or 3 sec hangs


Cool down: The cool down routine 5 min of gentle cardio Forearm massage Finger massage Deep stretches Forearm extensors and flexors Shoulder stretches Chest Back

Some podcasts I’d recommend for your stretching session:

On Episode 193, I sit down with American alpine legend, George Lowe. George grew up in Ogden, Utah, among an extended family of climbers, skiers, river runners that included his equally legendary cousin, Jeff. A self-described dork, George found a home among the small counter culture of climbing and began using his problem solving skills on the granite of the Wasatch and the Tetons at a fairly early age. Decades later at 75, Lowe’s resumé rivals any American mountaineer with winter ascents in the Tetons, first ascents of many “last great problem” type routes throughout the Canadian Rockies and Alaska and finally the Himalayas. Despite his maniacal effort to downplay his achievements, this episode solidifies what we already know: George Lowe is one of the best to ever climb – and also may or may not have helped with denuclearisation.

Angus Kille reads his account of climbing Indian Face, Britain’s first E9, and one of the most feared leads in the country.

Hans Florine was attempting his 110th ascent of the Nose of El Capitan in Yosemite Valley. He and a partner were doing the Nose in a Day (an elite climb), but were not attempting any speed records. Yet Hans still took a bone-breaking fall, despite all of his experience. Learn what went wrong for the man who literally wrote the book on climbing the Nose.

Andy Kirkpatrick answers a listener's question on the use of Prusik loops when abseiling.