When it comes to climbing gear, your shoes are arguably the most important item in your arsenal. They may not catch a fall or protect your noggin, but they’ll be with you wherever you go, and you can only share so many adventures before becoming best buds. But how do you even begin finding the perfect shoes? Surely the more aggressive and uncomfortable the better? Well, no, actually. While a sharply downturned toe and stiff rubber can make it easier to leverage teeny footholds and keep you solid on steep overhangs, the truth is that the best sending shoes are those that suit (a) your own unique feet, and (b) your preferred climbing style and goals.
The first step in finding your ideal sending shoes is to take a look at the shape of your feet and start from there (the help of a seasoned gear guru is invaluable here). There are a few important factors to consider, including:
- Foot length
- Foot width
- Instep height
- Toe box profile
- Heel box profile
Again, the staff in your local gear shop will likely be able to help you find the perfect shoe by checking out your foot shape and choosing some options that are likely to work well. A point worth addressing here is the difference between “men’s” and “women’s” models. Generally, women tend to have slightly smaller, thinner feet than men; this means that most women’s models will have less volume and be slightly narrower than the men’s equivalent. However, that does not mean that you should only look at the shoes designed for your gender. At the end of the day, we all have human feet, and there are so many variables at play. As mentioned above, the best thing to do is focus on your foot’s shape, rather than a shoe that may be specifically marketed towards a particular demographic.
Different companies have different approaches to their shoe design, and within one brand there will be a huge variety of shapes and styles. While professional senders and the local strongman may preach the powers of a particular model, there is no guarantee that this shoe will work for you. This is why it’s almost always better to buy shoes in person rather than online – the best way to find your perfect fit is to try a whole big bunch of options and narrow it down from there. Ideally, a shoe should fit your foot as snugly as possible to ensure that there is no dead space inside, while still being relatively comfortable.
It is also important to realise that you do not need hyper-aggressive shoes to climb hard. In fact, opting for softer, flatter shoes may even help you to strengthen your feet and toes and further elevate your performance. Plus, stiff, downturned shoes may be fantastic for bouldering, but they are not particularly well-suited for slabs, cracks or long days out. A more gentle profile paired with soft rubber allows for greater sensitivity and a more comfortable fit – perfect for finding those tiny smears and surviving the epics.
All this being said, let’s take a look at a few of our favourite brands and the kicks they have on offer:
La Sportiva
La Sportiva makes some of the best shoes around, particularly when it comes to high-performance kicks. Their use of ultra-sticky Vibram rubber, precisely tailored geometry and downright sexy design makes for shoes that feel as great as they look.
Tarantula, Tarantula Boulder & Tarantulace
The Tarantula velcro, Tarantula Boulder and Tarantulace models offer a fantastic balance between comfort and performance. You may think that these relatively flat bad boys should be limited to slabs, cracks and big walls, but their stiff rubber and sharp edges make them a great choice for technical routes and boulder problems. Plus, you can keep them on all day – perfect for trad and multi-pitches!
Solution
La Sportiva has plenty of excellent high-performance shoes, but the Solution has always been one of the best. Striking and made for sending, it offers an uber-aggressive profile, convenient one-strap closure system, solid heel box & toe cap, and a slingshot rand that locks your foot in nicely.
Katana & Katana Lace
The La Sportiva Katanas stand as legendary all-rounders in the climbing community, celebrated for their exceptional versatility, precision, and sleek design. The Velcro Katana is widely regarded as a very versatile shoe thanks to its balanced downturn, sticky Vibram rubber, and quick-adjust opposing straps that excel on everything from technical face climbs to indoor boulders. The Katana Lace steps up the support with a slightly stiffer build, P3 system for permanent downturn retention, and fine-tuned precision, making it a master of technical edging and long multi-pitch routes. Whichever option you choose, the Katanas deliver a razor-sharp edge and dependable performance across any terrain.
Miura
The La Sportiva Miuras will always be a classic fan-favourite for their superb performance and stunning aesthetic. The VS is regarded by some as the world’s best bouldering shoe thanks to its stiff rubber, flexible midsole and aggressive toe. On the other side of the coin, the lace-ups offer the same asymmetrical, down-turned profile with some added comfort and adjustability from the lacing system. Whichever way you swing, the Miuras are sure to show you a darn good time on any climb.
Ocún
Ocún makes some darn good gear, and their shoes are no exception. They marry sticky rubber with aggressive heel boxes and a slingshot rand, all of which works to hug the foot tightly and offer maximum confidence on the wall.
Jett QC
Providing a comfortable, relatively flat fit combined with a stiff sole made from Ocún’s stickiest rubber, the Jett QC is a solid intermediate shoe suitable for indoor and outdoor climbing. Two opposing velcro straps offer a snug fit and convenience when you’re taking your shoes on and off between burns, while a seamless heel and breathable tongue keep your feet happy so you can focus on crushing.
Pearl
The Pearl Lace Ups provide the perfect combination of precision and comfort, offering a high arch and slight asymmetry with a customisable lacing system. Tailored for narrow feet and equipped with a Grippin Edge sole, they fit like a glove and work wonders on small holds and steep overhangs.
Fury
With a deep heel box, reinforced toe cap and aggressive downturn, the Fury means business. Ocún’s patented 3-Force System gives a snug fit that is ideal for precise foot placement and power moves, making it ideal for bouldering and steep sport climbs.
Ozone
The Ozone is an excellent performance shoe, offering an aggressive, asymmetrical profile combined with ultra-sticky rubber and a design that works to maximise power in the toe and heel. This makes it ideal for steep vertical climbing and overhangs. The Ozone HV offers the same benefits as the Ozone with more space inside the shoe for wider feet.
Evolv
Evolv makes a wide range of shoes, from very gentle and soft, to aggressive and stiff. Plus, their budget-friendly price point makes them a great choice for beginners. Furthermore, Evolv uses a number of different TRAX rubber formulas, carefully pairing each shoe model with the ideal rubber for the best possible performance.
Defy & Defy LV
The Defy is a fantastic choice for a first shoe thanks to the uber-comfy fit, flat profile, easy-closure velcro straps and relatively stiff rubber. All of this works to create a shoe that won’t bring you to tears, while still offering precise footwork on slabs, verts and overhangs. Perfect for the gym and outdoors, especially for long days out multi-pitching!
Kronos & Kira
The Evolv Kronos and Kira are some of the best intermediate shoes on the market, bridging the gap between flat beginner slippers and painful, aggressive models. The Kronos is regarded by many as the ultimate versatile workhorse thanks to its high-volume fit, thick sticky rubber, and forgiving tension. The Kira offers the exact same technical precision and comfort tailored specifically for low-volume feet.