Clash of the Titans:
Edelrid Pinch vs Petzl Neox
When two titans of the climbing industry go head to head and release a similar device at the same time, you can expect some heads to be turned. Even more so when considering that these two devices claim—and aim—to do what no one thought was possible: be better than the GriGri.
It was about this time last year that I unboxed the NEOX, Petzl’s new cam-assisted braking belay device (and wrote about it here). At the same time, I was fortunate enough to get my hands on a sample of Edelrid’s latest challenger to the mantle of "best assisted braking belay device." It’s called the Pinch.
Now, almost a year since launch, I’ve been exclusively belaying with both these new devices—side by side (not simultaneously, I might add)—and this article is meant to determine which one I think is the winner. Purely based on topics and specs that I tried to make as objective as possible. Because subjectively? I am absolutely in love with the NEOX. I even found myself longingly thinking of it when forced to use a GriGri just last week. I know, first-world problems, right?
Let’s forget about the GriGri for a second. It remains the gold standard in belaying, but for these two new devices, we need to pin down which one comes the closest in upholding that standard.
Form Before Function
Before we get into the function, let’s talk about form—because these devices are quite different fundamentally.
The NEOX includes the addition of a sheave (or a wheel). This is meant to offer a smoother belay without the need of overriding the camming mechanism. I couldn’t get enough of it before, so I’ll mention it again: that air-traffic-controller style of belaying remains one of the safest and best ways to belay. It has been around since the days of the ATC and even pre-dates the ATC itself. It ensures that the dead-end is never neglected and slack management is always top of mind.
Onto the Pinch. Fundamentally, it looks (and works) incredibly similar to the GriGri. The main difference? It connects to the belay point of your harness without—yes, without—a carabiner. And this is where it gets its name.
The Petzl NEOX's wheel/sheave vs the Edelrid Pinch's camming mechanism.
lever-style button that latches onto a bar that keeps the device locked while in operation.
I know what you might be thinking because I thought the same thing: how can this possibly be safe?
The carabiner attachment points on Petzl’s devices also act as a safeguard to prevent the side plate from opening while the rope system is active. Edelrid’s answer to this lies within a lever-style button that latches onto a bar that keeps the device locked while in operation. On the attachment point to the harness is another bar which, when loaded on the belay loop, also acts as a preventive measure, ensuring the device stays closed. It will take you a while to become acquainted—and even comfortable—with how this device works. It sure did for me.
The Edelrid Pinch's 3 attachment methods: Direct attachment method, the conventional method using a locking carabiner and using a carabiner as a backup using the direct attachment method. If you use a carabiner, Edelrid recommends an oval or HMS style 'biner.
Head-to-Head: Spec Comparison
| NEOX | Pinch | |
| Weight | 235g | 234g |
| Rope Compatibility | 8.5mm to 11mm | 8.5mm to 10.5mm |
| Optimal Rope Diameter | 8.5mm to 11mm | Not indicated |
| Anti-Panic | No | Yes |
| Price (April 2025) | R2 795 | R2 450 |
Performance on the Wall
Weight-wise, there’s virtually no difference. However, since the Pinch doesn’t need a carabiner, your total belay setup could weigh a little less. That said, I found it finicky to rack on my harness, so I ended up carrying an extra biner for it anyway—negating that advantage altogether. So if you’re that anal about grammage, it’s one point to the Pinch, I guess.
Rope diameter compatibility? Add one to the NEOX point tally. Its performance was consistent across the full range of diameters, from 8.9mm up to 10.2mm. The Pinch, on the other hand, got a little jammy with anything thicker than 9.2mm.
A surprising plus for the Pinch: because it sits closer to the body (thanks to no biner), it naturally supports that sweet, smooth air-traffic-controller-style belaying—huge plus for me. Point to both devices here for ease of use, but the NEOX edges slightly ahead.
Let’s talk anti-panic. The Pinch has it, and it can be turned off. Great for beginners, and not overly annoying once you’re used to it. That’s a solid point in favour of the Pinch.
Then there's the elephant in the room: price. With the Pinch coming in at R2 450 and doing arguably more, it’s got serious value for money.
Versatility & Longevity
While the NEOX isn’t ideal for industrial use (it clicks loudly when used for ascending—seriously, it sounds like it’s breaking), the Pinch shines. It can jumar, top rope, and accommodate both beginners and advanced belayers. It’s also been tested to EN 12841 (rope access) as well as EN 15151-1 (sport climbing). The NEOX? Only the latter.
The Pinch is more versatile. No question.
Durability-wise, both have held up well after a year of heavy use. Some have noted dust build-up in the NEOX’s wheel, but I haven’t had any issues myself.
Tyler belaying with the Edelrid Pinch (left), and Petzl Neox (right).
Final Thoughts
On pure facts, the Pinch is the obvious winner. Its versatility is unrivalled, and the slight jamming at larger diameters is easy to forgive given the price.
That said—do either of these contenders dethrone the GriGri? Maybe not.
The NEOX fits beautifully into Petzl’s ecosystem. It’s specific. It’s sleek. It’s for advanced belayers. The Pinch? It’s scrappy, practical, and incredibly well-rounded. But still... the GriGri is tried, tested, and has 30+ years of loyal fans.
Maybe we’ll speak again in 30 years and see how this one played out.
By Tyler Morrissey
General Retail Manager
Head of ensuring we sell all things new and shiny. Jack of all trades. Lover of doggos. Gear Nerd.