Edelrid Pinch Review: The Optimus Prime of Belay Devices?

First Impressions: A Study in Robust Design

From the moment you handle the Pinch, its quality is undeniable. This is not merely a piece of metal, it is a product of meticulous German engineering. The robust construction, combining steel and aluminum, instills immediate confidence. A key design feature is the frontal steel brake grooves, a thoughtful addition engineered to withstand the long-term abrasion of rope friction, ensuring exceptional durability. While it carries more weight than some rivals, this is a direct trade-off for its overbuilt, confidence-inspiring construction.

The most revolutionary feature is its attachment mechanism. The Pinch does away with the traditional carabiner interface, instead clipping directly onto the belay loop! This, in my eyes, is a bold and transformative design choice from Edelrid.

Close-up of the frontal steel brake grooves.

Key Features in Detail

The Direct Connection: A Paradigm Shift in Control

This is the Pinch’s defining feature, and its advantages are profound. By eliminating the belay carabiner, the device sits lower and closer to the belayer's center of gravity. The benefits to this system are:

• Unmatched Stability & Control: The device is exceptionally stable on the belay loop. This lack of movement provides a hyper-responsive, direct connection to the rope, allowing the belayer to feel and react to the climber's movements with greater precision.
• Extended Reach: The lower attachment point provides an additional 20-30cm of reach when paying out slack - a critical advantage when a climber is making a desperate, outstretched clip.
• Superior Ergonomics: The stability and low-profile position are remarkably comfortable, significantly reducing belayer fatigue during long sessions.

Concerns regarding the security of the release button have been thoroughly addressed by independent testers like "Hard is Easy". Their findings conclude that accidental opening is highly improbable due to a stiff, recessed button that cannot be activated while the device is under load.

Furthermore the direct attachment method can be backed up with a carabiner as seen in the image below, this is my preferred method of attachment. The Pinch can also be attached to your belay loop in a traditional harness > carabiner > device method. For those wondering about compatibility, the manual specifies that the direct attachment channel is designed for anchor points (like your belay loop) with a width between a minimum of 10 mm and a maximum of 20 mm for textile loops, or 17 mm for metal attachment points.

Rope Handling: A New, More Intuitive Technique

The Pinch is optimized for single ropes from 8.5mm to 10.5mm, with peak performance on thinner, modern cords. The Pinch does get more grabby when working with thicker ropes, specifically 10.2mm and above in my testing.

It is critical to note that the recommended belay technique differs from that of a GRIGRI.

Attempting to use the common "thumb-on-the-cam" method is less efficient. The intended technique involves pressing on the back of the green lowering handle with the thumb. This method is not only effective but is arguably safer and more intuitive, especially for those new to assisted braking devices, as it promotes keeping a full, four-finger grip on the brake strand.

There is also an alternative belay technique, similar to the NEOX or ATC style of belaying. This allows you to control the amount of slack through your climber’s crux sections with ease. As seen in the demonstration video you do not touch the device at all in this style, allowing instant reactions to falls. This combined with the intended technique of pressing on the lowering handle allows versatile, safe and intuitive belaying.

Catching falls is crisp and secure, with the cam engaging with decisive authority. While some tests indicate it provides a "harder" catch with slightly less rope slippage than a GRIGRI, this is a predictable characteristic of its secure design.

The internal spring within the Pinch’s cam is felt as a bit stiffer compared to the GRIGRI. The increased tension gives you as a belayer more tactile feedback before the cam fully engages, which I prefer as it gives a "warning" feel when paying out slack quickly.

Lowering and the Anti-Panic Function

Lowering is exceptionally smooth and controlled. While the handle is more compact than a GRIGRI’'s, the modulation it offers is impeccable. It also incorporates an anti-panic function that engages the brake if the lever is pulled past roughly 160 degrees. This is an excellent safety feature that can also be permanently disabled by the user with an included screw, offering a tailored experience for professionals and advanced users.

Multi-Pitch & Industrial Certification: Engineered for Demanding Environments

The Pinch's utility extends far beyond the sport crag. It is a capable multi-pitch tool, offering four distinct attachment orientations for optimal positioning when belaying from an anchor.

Furthermore, it is dual-certified to EN 12841-C, the European standard for professional rope access systems. This certification for use as a descender on static lines in work-at-height scenarios is a powerful testament to its engineering. Specifically, this certification applies to low-stretch kernmantle ropes between 10.0 mm and 10.5 mm, for a maximum user weight of 120 kg. It means the Pinch is built to withstand forces and testing protocols far more rigorous than those required for recreational climbing, offering an exceptional safety margin in any environment.

The Pinch vs. The Competition

How does the Pinch compare to its primary competitors in the market?

Who is the Edelrid Pinch for?

This device is an excellent choice for any discerning climber who values innovation and superior performance. It is ideal for:

• Sport climbers seeking a more ergonomic and connected belay experience.
• Multi-pitch climbers who require versatility and absolute robustness.
• Beginners and experts alike who appreciate intelligent, safety-oriented design.
• Left-handed climbers looking for a device with truly ambidextrous functionality.

The Verdict

The Edelrid Pinch is more than just an alternative, it represents a significant evolution in belay device design. It is a bold, intelligent piece of engineering that successfully challenges conventions. While no single tool is perfect for every application, the Pinch’s combination of robust performance, thoughtful design, and outstanding versatility is truly compelling.

Pros:

• Direct harness attachment is revolutionary for stability and control.
• Exceptionally durable construction with frontal steel brake grooves.
• A true all-rounder for sport, trad (single rope systems), and multi-pitch climbing.
• Superb ambidextrous design.
• Intuitive and safer recommended belay technique.
• Industrial certification reinforcing reliability.

Cons:

• Can be less fluid with thick, high-friction ropes.
• Heavier than its primary competitors.
• Requires unlearning old habits for those used to other devices.
• Racking the device on a harness requires a brief adjustment period.

The Pinch is a top-tier, game-changing device that is a pleasure to use. It is a piece of equipment that inspires both confidence and passion for the sport. Whether it is inside of the autobot roster or your crag kit, it is sure to excel.